samedi 20 mars 2010

The HK clouds and fog + Macau

I can't believe how late I am with my blog updates... more than one month. I've been neglecting you for a little while now and it is not because there was nothing happening. So finally, here is the first update of many to come.

In the Lantau clouds with the buffaloes

A little more then a month ago, the day started pretty early that morning. Woke up after a night out, took the MTR to Central and then got on a boat heading to the small village of Mui Wo, hidden in the Silver Mine Bay on the East coast of Lantau Island. (see map of the trail on http://www.hkwalkers.net/eng/longtrail/ltrail/ltrail.htm) It was not to hot that day and pretty clear (meaning no fog) but lots of grey clouds were a little lower than the peak.
The four of us were still trying to wake up during the boat ride. Yen, Justin and Miles were part of the expedition that day.


The sun was just rising behind the Hong Kong Island and you could see the clouds caressing the mountains softly.



Arring in Mui Wo, something you don't see on Hong Kong Island: bicycles.
We didn't stay in Mui Wo since we had 27.5 km of peaks and valleys ahead of us.



Climbing up the first peak, we ended hiking in th clouds pretty quickly and couldn't see 20 feet in front of us. It was windy and all surfaces were covered with water: the rocks, the branches, the leaves, the small spider webs and us.



It was so windy that we could feel like going to fall sometimes making it more dangerous to climb on the narrow stone steps.


Concrete shelters were scattered on the grassy hills. You can actually rent one during summer time.



The rock that just looks like a big turtle.
Strength demonstration; who said you cannot lift mountains?


I learned on the island that there are many buffaloes wandering in the nature of the Lantau island.
and many buffaloes imply many buffaloes mess.
To compensate for the dirt, some bushes were in blossom.
934m later, we arrived at the top of one of the highest peak of Hong Kong SAR, but without the amazing view.



After a lunch in the clouds: picture time!
After all this going upward, I was pretty happy thinking we were going to go downward for a little bit. Unfortunately, the rocks placed to be used as steps were very slippery and slanted; we all felt one or twice and what was supposed to be the easiest part of the trail became a dangerous living nightmare. On top of that, Miles got bitten by a bee on his leg. After a while, we arrived to the Wisdom Path near the Big Buddha area where we were below the clouds.


At the end of the path, there is the Heart Sutra, a old prayer that is here shown on wooden pillars placed in the shape of the infinity. (see http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/outlying-giant-buddha.html)



These torches are used for the barbecue sites.

The Big Buddha, the one time that the clouds cleared out to see it from the ground.

On top of all these stairs is the Big Buddha sitting with its 34 m high and 250 tonnes. You cannot see it but believe me, it's there!


Once we got to the Big Buddha, we were half way through our initial goal; it was around 2:30pm. The first part was the toughest on and my companions had enough for today, tired or just sad of not seeing anything at the peaks. With my usual stubbornness, I decided to continue and sprint to finish the this trail. I was sad of leaving my friends, but really felt I needed to continue. After leaving them taking the cable car back to the MTR, I jogged my way towards the 13.5 km left.
The first 3km were pretty easy and smooth; mainly on paved path or side of roads.
Beside some unexpected Asian buffaloes here and there.
Right under the clouds with the Shek Pik Reservoir on background.
Everything was smooth up to getting to this 7.5 km section that was a combination of small peaks and grassy hills. I was in the clouds the whole time and pretty far from any village or habitation. The only sign of living were the buffaloes mess and I didn't really wanted to bump into one while running in the this foggy atmosphere.
Mid way into the section, my cell phone battery died and I have to admit that I never felt that alone. I thanked my stubborned side for putting me through this and was wondering what I would do if I hurt myself or felt badly; not to mention the fact that I was starting to be pretty tired. I quite miss my friends there, alone on that peak and wondered why did I have to finish this trail so intensively? (in despair, sitting down to rest and starting taking pictures like everything was normal is a good remedy against panic)
I believe that I will remember for a long time how I felt on these windy grassy hills where I couldn't see a thing. I started back running to make sure not to finish the hike in pitch black. I focus on wishing strongly to arrive at destination in one piece and not to meet anymore buffaloes on my way.

After what felt like one of the longest hike I did, I started going downwards and getting to clearer areas with sign of civilization...
and some great surprises along the way, like this pavilion hidden behind the trees.
Finally, the village of Tai O was visible; never been so happy to finally get to destination.


Right when I got to the bus stop, it was 7pm, the critical time when you don't see a thing outside anymore. There was so many people waiting for the bus for Tung Chung station that I decide to take a cab. I had already a hard time walking properly after all this exercise.
The following days were quite painful. I had sore legs for 3 days after I came back. Looking back at the experience, I was glad that nothing bad happened. Despite proving that when I have something in mind, I want to do it, the feeling of pushing yourself beyond the limits is great. Now it is just a question of where and when next!



Two Quebecois and one English guy in Chinese Las Vegas

On this Saturday morning of March 13th, the trees on the campus were in blossom. Three persons, feeling a little discomfort from partying the night before, were trying to make their way to the China Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui.

148HKD later, David, Alex and I were on a Ferry for Macau, the Asian Las Vegas. Luckily, this other Chinese SAR is more then casinos and gambling. It is for all these other things that we crossed the border for this old Portuguese colony. The SAR is composed of 3 islands: Macau, that used to be an island but is now connected to the continent by a sandbar; Taipa and Coloane.
Arriving on Macau island, the best way to get closer to the city center is to take on of the casino free shuttles. It is not called Chinese Las Vegas for nothing; the biggest casinos of Vegas have a building here. I was a little disappointed when I realized that this is really nothing like The Strip.
Arriving to MGM Grand, we felt like having to go in and have a look since we used the free shuttle. The casino was splendid and the decor extravagant.





First 2 differences comparing to Vegas: emptiness and the gambling areas are enclosed. I learned afterwards that the Chinese government limited the access to Macau for Chinese population to a maximum of 2 visits a year, which explains the uncrowdedness. Hungry, we stopped and had tasty dimsum in a restaurant inside MGM.




After the snack, we headed out, ready to explore. The Wynn casino and hotel was just the complex beside the MGM so we decided to sneak a peak before going for the suggested walk in the small old streets.


In front of the Wynn, the water artificial pond has water jets performances similar but smaller than the Belagio's ones in Vegas.
Just having fun imagining the person or the monstrous thing that sat on that bench to make it looks this way...


Beside the Wynn and the MGM Grand, there are 2 other old casinos.
Second 2 differences of Macau: the casinos are not on a strip and closer to residential building.

The more interesting part of Macau is the evident clash between the Portuguese and the Chinese culture. The mix is surprising. Certainly because we are so used to see the English language with any other language, seeing street names in Chinese and Portuguese is really a one of a kind.


The side walk and parts of old streets are in Portuguese style mosaic... with Chinese typical shops!



Mini truck with mini mechanical shovel.



The Macau Tower in the clouds. This construction was requested at the end of the 90's from a Macau billionaire that came back from a trip in Auckland and wanted the exact same tower. (to me it is pretty much looking like the tower in Seattle also...) The Tower was inaugurate in 2001.




A "toy" yellow truck parked under a tree.


Looking at the front of that building in the picture above, I was really asking myself what's in their condo convention under modifications allowed at windows, building facade and balcony.

Sleepy dogs on top of a stone wall.



Stand alone building, crazy small.

On this exterior wall, there were many painting explaining how to behave. In short, you get a 600 MOP fine if you're cut doing these things, but they were all funny to look at.







On that little street was a Koi Kei Bakery (http://www.koikei.com/index.php), one of the 2 most famous bakery establishment in Macau. They have many locations in Macau and one in HK but all the goodies are freshly done in Macau and most of the things are made right in front of you for testing in the shops! The lady on the picture was doing pocket pancakes stuffed with dried meat. They have also an impressive quantity of beef jerkey varieties (also other jerkey meat, including boar). Some of their most famous delicacies are almond cookies, fresh egg rolls and The cannot be ignored Portuguese style egg tarts.

We bought some food there and went to this European looking place near buy to enjoy our findings. Here, David couldn't decide between the boar jerkey and the local made ice cream.
My Portuguese egg tarts. No worries, I did share but these were really good. The crust had a "je-ne-sais-quoi" that makes a perfect pie!
In the European style area was the entrance to a Chinese temple.
We took the opportunity to get in and have a look; they had these huge incenses as the one on the picture below.





Huge bus on a tiny street and a restaurant.



Macau is actually the world of scooters.



Anywhere you go, you just feel like there will be a McDonald's around the corner: disturbing in a globalization way.

Before to leave for Macau, Ricardo, a polyU student from Spain, told me that since no Jesuit are allowed in China, they are based in Macau. Walking in the streets, there are many signs of the presence of Jesuit establishment.
Both also of Chinese religions.
And sometimes, just other religious believes...







I called that the Macau Festival of Green Cars, that would be even more funny if it was true.

The famous Senado Square of Macau where all the tourists are.





One of the most visited monument in Macau is the ruins of the St-Paul's Cathedral. Built in the 1600's, the facade is all what is left of a major fire that occurred during the 1835 typhoon.
Once you climb the 66 stairs, you can go on the left hand side and discover this small Chinese temple. We went down by other stairs in front of that small building and continue to walk in the area.



Coming back towards the Senado Square, I was reassure to know that this pharmacy wasn't selling fake medicine.
We were really hungry and pass by another Koi Kei Bakery, so we couldn't resist and stop by again, tasting and buying more goodies.


We finally stop at a Portuguese restaurant just off the square. They had good sangria. For the food, I had read somewhere that there was amazing paella in Macau (even if I know that paella is Spanish and not Portuguese). Unfortunately, what was served to us was far from a paella, small disappointment here. Otherwise, the grilled chorizo was good and we were eating in a small quiet courtyard outside.

Finishing the not so paella.


Before heading back to HK, we decided to go and see the other casinos on Taipa island.
Third 2 differences of Macau: the old Portuguese style area is charming and half of the casinos are on another island
We tried to take the bus but couldn't get change without buying stuff so we took a cab. After crossing the bridge separating Macau island and Taipa, we finally got to the Venetian casino.
Two guys trying to look amazed by the ceiling and me, enjoying myself in fake Italy.

After gambling (I mean mostly losing money), we tour the shopping area. The place again was really empty giving you an awkward feeling.


We then left the Venetian for the casinos across the street, Hard Rock Hotel and Crown Plaza hotel.





Why putting so much efforts and money in doing such ugly walls?



A "The Doors" welcoming reception. Like it!



Back to the Venetian to take the shuttle to the Taipa ferry terminal. The casino is actually presenting the Cirque du Soleil show in Macau called Zaia. (http://www.cirquedusoleil.com/en/shows/zaia/home.aspx)

Beside the Venetian and the Hard Rock Cafe Hotel, there is just nothing on this mini wanna be strip. Everything was pitch black and you could see some buildings construction but you just feel like not much is going on. Macau is nothing like the crazy and buzzing feeling of the Sin City; it has a charming Portuguese style mixed with Chinese cultural resulting in something unique that needs to be seen once in a life time.

Other updates to follow soon. (I mean sooner than last time)
Ciao!
xxx


1 commentaire:

  1. Hi Jacynthe
    Thanks for sharing your experiences with us. I enjoyed your trip in the fog, particularly keeping your eyes open for buffaloes, and what they dropped.
    Cheers
    Anthony

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